Historically, the French patronize a wide variety of sole proprietors for virtually all of their basic needs: meat, bread, vegetables and a host of other supplies. Of course now much of these needs are provided by large grocery stores, corporate behemoths where one never meets le partron. I still believe there are advantages to developing personal relationships with those from whom we purchase life’s necessities and consider the sole proprietor as my first choice when seeking daily provisions.
Here is my list of the best shops in Le Grau du Roi, these shops are open year round:
Le Panier des Fruits – near the Post Office, offers consistently the best produce in town. Madame will add a few sprigs of parsely to your purchases at no charge if you ask.
Le Friand II – boulangerie with excellent baggettes. Pasteries are good, perhaps the best in town, but baguette is the draw.
Au Pain Paysan – a newer boulangerie with a wide range of bread choices which are probably just as good as the Friand II. The merangues are particularly outstanding.
Butcher – alas, I have found the butchers in Le Grau average at best. For meats I recommend a trip into Aigues Mortes where there is an excellent butcher (no shop name of which I am aware) but he is found about 30 meters straight in from the main gate, just on the left. His meats (both beef and pork) are excellent and the butcher himself is a jolly gentlemen but beware, his accent can be a bit difficult to understand. Otherwise one might wait for the thrice weekly markets on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings . There are several butchers whose products are probably better than what is typically available in town.
Other unique items at market:
- Do not miss the opportunity to enjoy either the local lucque olives or the olives à l’ail (garlic olives) which are both quite heavenly.
- Look for Fougasse d’ Aigues Mortes - a sugar coated, lightly perfumed with fleur d’oranger flavoring bread that may be enjoyed with one’s morning coffee or served as an excellent dessert
- Tellines – small, sweet bi-valves similar to tiny mussels, steamed and served with either a vinaigrette or bourride sauce. They may be purchased at the market, uncooked for approximately 12€/kilo.
