September 24, 2009

la vinaigrette

At the heart of a great deal of French cooking is la sauce vinaigrette.  Used in salads and a host of other applications, this simple sauce adds flavor to even the simplest of dishes.  It’s not the least bit difficult but the proportions resulting in the best flavor are to mix:

3 parts olive oil

1 part vinegar

¼ part French mustard

salt to taste

From this basic beginning one may add thyme, parsley, or other herbs as are available.   I shall refer to this basic recipe from time to time as it is a valuable tool in any kitchen.

September 14, 2009

SOS Medicine

A good number to always have handy in the unlikely event that you or someone with whom you are traveling becomes ill:

01 47 07 77 77
For about 70€, you’ll have a physician visiting you in your Parisian hotel room in under an hour.

July 16, 2009

Le Grau du Roi – The shops, my personal favorites

Historically, the French patronize a wide variety of sole proprietors for virtually all of their basic needs:  meat, bread, vegetables and a host of other supplies.  Of course now much of these needs are provided by large grocery stores, corporate behemoths where one never meets le partron.  I still believe there are advantages to developing personal relationships with those from whom we purchase life’s necessities and consider the sole proprietor as my first choice when seeking daily provisions.

Here is my list of the best shops in Le Grau du Roi, these shops are open year round:

Le Panier des Fruits – near the Post Office, offers Keep reading →

July 13, 2009

Your mobile phone in France – UPDATE

I recently reviewed the telecommunication options for those traveling in France.  Among the companies offering service in Europe (including Callineurope and Mobal) the following are my recommendations.  Unlike the better known plans there are no set up fees with the following and per minute costs are minimal.

Consider either of these two options:

1. If you have an unlocked, GSM tri or quad band phone, purchase a Breizh SIM from PhoneHouse. Cost is 6.90€. Minutes are sold prepaid in increments of 5€. 52 minutes for 10€ or .19€/min.  This rate applies to calls made to either other mobile phones or fixed line phones.  There is never a charge for inbound minutes.

Phonehouse

Note:  Recent reports have indicated Phonehouse no longer sells this SIM, at least not from its Paris stores.  It is still available via internet sales from Breizh.

2. If you do not have an available GSM phone, purchase one for 29€ ($41) from Virgin (stores all over France). There is no setup fee and it comes with a SIM and 12 free call-out minutes. Additional minutes available in increments of 5€ and charged at .27€/minute.  There is no charge for inbound calls.

Virgin Mobile

Samsung

Updated 7 Nov 09

June 27, 2009

La Gourmande – the best Crêperie in the south of France

Certainly there are a good number of Crêperies in Brittany.  However in Le Grau du Roi, there is a crêperie that is every bit as good as anything found in St. Malo or elsewhere in Brittany.

La Gourmande is not easy to find at 3, rue Etienne Bonneze (on the left bank).  In fact rue Etienne Bonneze is not a street at all; it’s an alley and not a very long one.  But within a few steps of the rotating bridge in the heart of Le Grau du Roi is one of this areas greatest restaurant surprises.  Madame Cotton, an import from Brittany herself, uses only the freshest of ingredients, her batters made from scratch from long tested, family recipes.   Her galettes are cooked to a dark Keep reading →

June 21, 2009

Le Grau du Roi – marché aux poissons

One of the best things about le Grau du Roi is the food.  The restaurants are inexpensive and the fresh fish are plentiful.  If you like fish and can prepare it yourself, there are four or five fishermen selling their catch every morning along the port.  If you ask, they will clean the fish while you wait.

Marche au poissons, le port du Grau du Roi

Marche au poissons, le port du Grau du Roi

If the fish is to be cooked in the oven (au four) it will be scaled.  If you plan on Keep reading →

June 12, 2009

le départ, destination le Grau du Roi

Grau du Roi 21 june 005

It’s the end of the first week in Jun, today we depart for Paris and connect through to le Grau du Roi in the south of France along the Mediterranean coast.  Le Grau du Roi has been a six year pilgrimage for us, its beaches and activities are a perfect detraction for our daughter and the seafood and inexpensive restaurants are a perfect attraction for me.

We first depart IAH on Continental.  This is our first trip on a Boeing 767 as Continental recently downgraded to this aircraft from the B777 it had been using since retiring their DC-10s.  In a word, the flight was disappointing.  An earlier departure time, just after 3 pm, means one is less likely to obtain the required sleep and the aircraft itself does not compare in comfort with the previous model.  Cramped seats and older audio-visual systems lead the list of disappointments, food and service were OK but for a Business Class fare, we were underwhelmed.

We easily connected to AF for our flight to Montpellier where we were met by our landlord.  M. Coviesec always finds time to pick us up at the airport and drive us the 20 minutes to our apartment .  Wow, what a view! The 4th floor of an apartment building at the end of the canal’s entrance into the sea with a view not only of the port entry but of the beach as well.

la Rose des Sables

It’s been a long trip but we cannot wait for dinner.  Tonight it’s le Rose des Sables, a very popular restaurant for us as well as with the locals.  Le Grau du Roi is a working fishing town which unlike many of its neighbors is open and thriving every month of the year.  Le Rose des Sables remains open even when the summer tourist return home, a testament to its reputation, excellent service, and always fresh seafood.

As we settle in for our first night, I can hear the waves slap against the sand on the beach below me.  Vacation is underway.

June 1, 2009

France summer 09

Beginning this week, I narrate our 4 week stay in the south of France.  The food, the beach, the lifestyle  – all as seen by Sarastro.

May 8, 2009

Daytrips from Paris

I could very contentedly spend weeks vacationing in Paris without ever feeling compelled to leave. Many visitors though wonder about the surrounding country side and there are some fascinating destinations just an hour or so from the center of Paris.

Here is my list, sanitized from long, boring, and expensive tour bus rides which offer little but the reward of fatigue and the advantage of hours of transportation boredom.

Auvers-sur-Oise

For instruction on how to reach Auvers-sur-Oise by train

Chantilly

For instruction on how to reach Chantilly by train

Chartres Keep reading →

May 7, 2009

Spending in Euros

Though certainly no expert, I have followed the topic of money exchange carefully for some time now and have drawn several conclusions.  Here is a summary of money exchange options and how you may benefit from the advantages of each one:

__________________

Credit Cards

1. While your bank may not charge a currency conversion fee, Visa and Master Card does on all transactions made outside of the US whether the charge is in dollars, euros, pound sterling, or any other currency.

2. Most banks, particularly the large well known variety, add a 2%-4% service fee to all international charges Keep reading →